GRASSE • MONACO • VILLEFRANCHE-SUR-MER

There are so many places to choose from along the French Riviera, and figuring out where to go can be a daunting task. You will likely fly into Nice, as that is the French Riviera’s capital, and while it is definitely not a city you want to neglect exploring, you certainly don’t want to confine yourself to it. Nice is a marvelous base for exploring the Riviera, as most nearby towns will be easily accessible through the train there via a day trip. I began and ended my trip there. I took day trips to Grasse, France and the Principality of Monaco. I also spent a couple of nights in Villefranche-sur-Mer and Antibes. I won’t write about Antibes as the day I spent there was overcast, and my friend and I were both ill, so sadly, I didn’t do much there.

Grasse is a city that has been on my to-do list for about 4-5 years. My love of perfumery was born soon after meeting my good friend Marcelo, a talented artist with whom I share a creative and aesthetic affinity for good books, cooking, and more importantly, a predilection for exquisite tastes. He introduced me to, among other things, the world of niche perfumery. Taught me about top notes and heart notes and base notes. Spent countless hours discussing what smells we liked (we have very different preferences), spraying and smelling different perfumes, eventually even dabbling with perfume making. He casually mentioned Grasse to me one day, that it was the perfume capital of the world, and you could go take a perfumer’s workshop there and create your own scent. I made a mental note and decided on the spot that I would go there at some point. Fast forward, here I am at the Galimard Perfume Factory (pictured above), which is one of the three main perfume houses in Grasse that offers perfume workshops. I chose their workshop because they offer the largest selection of perfume notes to create from, at the best price, so it wasn’t a hard call. The workshop is held about a mile away from the factory and is 53 euros, takes approximately two hours, and at the end you walk away with your very own 100 ml bottle of perfume. Which, by the way, the composition of is recorded in Galimard’s database so that you can re-order your signature scent.

The Galimard Factory offers free tours, and also has a small gift shop where you can buy their perfumes, lotions, soaps, and other small curios. When you walk through you’ll see the different copper stills (pictured above) where essential oils are created and the perfumer’s organ (pictured below), where the Nose (perfume expert) composes perfumes. The organ is the desk where scents are arranged in three tiers by type: top, middle/heart, and base notes. In order to be well-balanced, perfumes have all three of these. The top note, as the name belies, is what you will first smell. That is why it is so important to spray on a perfume before purchasing. Wait to see how the perfume smells when it reacts with your skin (smell after about five minutes for top note) and then live in it for a day to see how you smell as the top note fades into the heart note and finally settles into the base note. The base note will be the smell you’re left with and many people buy perfume for love of the top note, not realize that the dry down may not be quite what they signed up for.

As mentioned before, the perfume workshop is held at a distinct but nearby location (pictured below).

When you walk into the site of the perfume workshop, the lobby (pictured below) will be full of perfumes, soaps, and scented lotions. The gift shop at the factory seems to have pretty much the same selection. Come early and sample the smells before your workshop begins. I would recommend doing it before and not after as your nose will need a break post-workshop. Halfway through the workshop we were shooed away to take a much needed breath of fresh air outside.

Once it is time for your workshop, you will be ushered into the back room, where you will be seated at your very own perfumer’s organ (pictured below).

You are given time with each, the base, heart and top notes, beginning with the base. You figure out your smells and add them to the vial and mix according to the perfume expert, or Nose, who is facilitating the workshop. Each tier is subdivided into families which are color-coded i.e. fruity, floral, chypre etc. Once your perfume is done, you can have it in a complimentary brown bottle, complete with a custom label (name of your choosing), or pay extra for a different bottle. The brown keeps the light out, which is a good thing, and it gives it an apothecary-like feeling so I stuck with it.

Don’t expect to use your perfume right away. The smells need to properly mix, and the chemical breakdown really takes at least six weeks but you are told you can use it after two. You technically can, but, according to Marcelo, six weeks is the sweet spot. He has more experience making perfume than I do so I defer to him. I also noticed that my perfume did smell very different at the six week mark than the two week mark. I actually didn’t like my perfume at the two week mark and now love it.

Moving on to Monaco. Another country is a thirty minute train ride away, under 10 euros each way? It would be a shame to miss it, so go, go, and go. It is a really easy day trip, and unless you have money to blow, it isn’t worth staying there as accommodation is quite expensive. Budget is expensive in Monaco. It feels like a gated community inside of France. Everything is manicured, and almost pristine in comparison. Well-cared for is the phrase that comes to mind. It is also very hilly, the city feels like it has “levels”. I ascended to the Prince’s Palace, which was more unassuming than I expected.

The square in front of the palace is, like most squares, a public gathering space. Not sure if it’s mainly tourists or locals are mixed, but the height means it also functions as a lookout spot where you can see the entire city from above. Just beyond the square are small little streets, more like alleys (without the dodgy connotations) that you can wander. There are some souvenir shops along the way there as well. On the way up and down to the palace, you will see Port Hercules, which is Monaco’s only deep-water port. The sheer amount of yachts docked there is a testament to the wealth found there.

Some people say it’s overrated but I think you should go to Casino Monte-Carlo. Yes it is a 17 euro entrance fee but it includes the option of either a 10 euro credit to play, or a drink voucher. I actually got lucky for the first time ever, and made about 40+ euro, so I made my money back and then some. Cameras/pictures aren’t allowed inside the casino’s gaming room, so the picture above is from the lobby but the inside is BREATHTAKING. You can just walk in and sit down for awhile and take it all in, it truly is exquisite and a world away from what you would usually think of when the word casino comes to mind.

The last place on the riviera I will discuss is Villefranche-sur-Mer. Picturesque, even quaint, and oh so French in the best of ways. Villefranche is everything you want in a quiet Riviera village.

One of the best, and affordably priced, French restaurants I went to in France was in Villefranche-sur-Mer: La Grignotière.

The daily menu comes in just under 20 euros at 19.50, and includes three courses. Appetizer, entree, and dessert. That’s a pretty sweet deal, and the quality far exceeds the price point. Snapshot of menu below, also…can someone please teach them how to spell octopus?

We also had an amazing time relaxing on the beach there. Pebbled like Nice’s beach, but the pebbles were small and tan instead of grey.

The riviera isn’t overrated, it has been written about and visited throughout time by artists, celebrities etc. for a reason. Just figure out what you want out of your visit and you’ll probably find a town or city there that suits your specific tastes and needs. I did my research and opted out of cities like St. Tropez and Cannes because although they’re well known, the consensus on Cannes is it offers little more than a film festival and St. Tropez is more expensive, and less beautiful than some of its less-known counterparts. A bit inland to Grasse for perfume, Monaco for a taste of royalty and luxury, and Villefranche for the understated charm of a French Riviera seaside village.

À bientôt!

Nice has everything I need to be happy. The beach is stunning, the shopping excellent, entertainment solid, and food options range from typically decadent French pastries of your neighborhood boulangerie or patisserie to pretty much every other major cuisine. This is a tourist town so they cater to a wide range of tastes. Ironically, one of my favorite meals here was at an asian fusion restaurant called Le Soleil d’Asie. I don’t eat sushi but my friend said the sushi was up to par. The gyoza is a must.

An affordably priced restaurant that definitely caters to the tourist crowd (this in no way compromises the food however) is Le Vingt4. They have a wide selection of wine, and they’ll be more than happy to help you pair your food with your wine. They’re more “customer-service oriented” than your average French restaurant which can be comforting if you’re American. I don’t really expect anyone to go out of their way because I know where I am, and it just isn’t part of the culture because it isn’t a tipping culture. That doesn’t mean that tipping isn’t expected at all. It is and it isn’t, especially in touristy towns, which is always awkward for me. You don’t technically, but, it depends on the type of restaurant and the demographic. Just be aware, I’ve never had anyone turn down a tip yet so maybe the days when it was considered offensive are slipping away.

…the chocolate moelleux (lava cake) with a pistachio cream on the side is really good!

The main shopping street, which is hella long, is called Avenue Jean Médecin, colloquially referred to as “The Avenue”, which gives you some idea of how iconic it is. The tram also runs straight through it so it’s fairly central and well connected. Along the avenue you will find shops of all kinds, and even a shopping mall. You will also find a sweet-toothed gourmand’s dream: Confiserie Ballanger.

I went there for brunch one day, and it has everything from gaufres (waffles) to crêpes and literal candy. There are also less sugary sweet options, the whipped cream isn’t very sweet (my one gripe, I don’t want to taste the cow) and if you get a darker chocolate syrup or a simple berry topping it cuts down on the sweetness for those of you who don’t want to drown in sugar.

If you keep walking down The Avenue you will come to the Place Masséna, which is the historic main square of Nice. Enjoy the perspective distortion from the checkerboard tiles on my panoramic shot.

In the epicenter of the plaza stands a fountain featuring a statue of Adonis. The sculptor, Alfred Janniot, apparently offended the public because the initial rendition had a phallus that was determined to be a bit too…large. Subsequently, he reduced the original size. He stands before you today in all his glory.

From the plaza it isn’t far to the promenade, you’ll pass a few really neat parks. One, which I don’t know the name of, has a lot of sculpture installations, many of which are interactive. The Promenade des Anglais is very long, it is my understanding that one end begins at the airport. It is basically a boardwalk, you can see it pictured below, lined with palm trees. The portion of the promenade near the plaza isn’t far from the Castle of Nice, which is built on a hill, which gives rise to its other name, Castle Hill. There is a winding staircase that takes you to an observatory level. Free and accessible, all of my aerial views of Nice were taken there. Pause on your way up to catch your breath and take advantage of the different vantage points.

One of the best bowls of pasta I’ve ever had is from ILLIA PASTA which is found in the Nice’s old town, an unassuming restaurant tucked away in one of old town’s many small alleys. The owner is Italian and he sources all of his ingredient’s from Italy, which I imagine isn’t hard since the border is a stone’s throw away.

My friend and I ate here twice because we loved it so much the first time around. It is also super affordable, around 10 euros a plate and he has a set menu that includes a drink and a dessert. I don’t eat pork but she swears by the Bolognese. I had a ratatouille pasta the first time, and the French/Italian fusion dish is very hearty and comforting. To be honest I am not the biggest fan of ratatouille as a rule, so the fact I liked it is kind of a big deal. I overheard a customer saying to the owner, as he paid after his meal, that he’s eaten pasta all over Italy and that was the best bowl he’s ever had. I can’t vouch for that, since I’ve never been to Italy but I think that says a lot.

After ILLIA, if you haven’t taken dessert there, mosey on over to what sounds like Pinocchio’s long-lost cousin: Fenocchio. A gelato shop that boasts both quality and quantity. Their flavors are very unique and I wish I had had the time to go back and sample more. They venture into the bizarre, with flavors like olive or thyme gelato.

See picture below for menu of flavor selections:

Nothing in me wants olive gelato so I didn’t venture in that deeply but I did try some more unusual flavors. I got a scoop of cassis gelato and a scoop of jasmine gelato. Flavors I wouldn’t typically combine but both intrigued me. I ate them separately though. I got distracted by the vibrant color of the cassis scoop and took a bite before snapping a photo so enjoy my bite mark.

Old town is mostly pedestrian streets, and if you wander to Palais Lascaris, it is a 17th century that now functions as a musical instrument museum.

To be honest the actual palace was more interesting to me than their exhibits, but maybe my standards are too high though. Check out the museum pass if you plan to go to more than one museum in Nice, also student prices if you have a student ID.

It seemed to be closed the day I went but if cathedrals are your thing then check out the Notre-Dame de Nice.

Keep in mind that as the capital of the French Riviera, Nice is a really great base if you want to day trip but not stay in another of the many villages on the Riviera. Train tickets are very cheap and can be bought on the spot as service is frequent. Also they’re generally all well under 10 euros. I think the most I paid was 8 euros to Monaco, each way, which is a different country soooo…do it. Monaco is really expensive, a hostel bed there can run you 50-70 euros so staying in Nice is a great option if you don’t have that kind of cash to burn. I will be discussing the nearby towns/villages in my next post.

And because farewells are bittersweet, I’ll leave you with a (still lovely) picture of Nice’s striking pebbled beach on a not-sunny day…

Au revoir

My favorite city in Morocco. Once Mogador, now Essaouira.

Much like the alizée wind that characterizes it, Essaouira is a breath of fresh air. Touristy enough that there are attractions and amusements enough but the coastal attitude means a cutdown in the haranguing nature of the market. This abatement also extends to the tourist crowds. While there are still plenty of people, the alizée wind is strong enough to discourage casual beaching, as the wind is likely to kick up a small sandstorm. This means all the sunbathing tourists are diverted from Essaouira (we don’t want them anyways though…). The coast is still beautiful, and there is an array of water sports, like windsurfing, available to explore.

The fisherman venture out on their iconic blue boats, and the dock is a place that fills the senses. It isn’t exactly pretty but it definitely has a unique feel to it, one I would call raw, making it interesting, but simultaneously mellow, which stops it from becoming off-putting. Even the garbage piles are far from jarring, and instead evoke the sense that one is coming up on some sort of art installation that is delivering some sort of social commentary.

If you venture further down away from where the boats are docked, you will find a touristy fleet of cafes, that I would largely avoid, as the quality is subpar and expensive. I would go for the small stalls that allow you to select a freshly caught fish that is fried fresh before your eyes. Affordable, authentic, and appetizing. The trifecta.

The medina (old city) encompasses the souk (market) within its walls. Walls that come right up to the waterfront. Everything that can be purchased is sold in and out of the walls.

Once inside the walls, the market stalls condense and your senses are completely stimulated with the colorful arrays of olives and fruit and spices. I cooked once while I was there and was delighted to find fresh capers being sold among one of the olive vendors.

As with most markets, there is no shortage of street food. Not all of which you should trust, of course. I ended up eating a simple plate of fried fish that was vouched for by a friendly local. I wasn’t prepared and simply couldn’t finish the plate, which was scarcely over a euro. It was served with the customary flatbread, a simple tomato sauce [bland, but not offensive], and olives. I requested lemon and salt. Also, disclaimer, I’m a recent olive convert so I may occasionally ramble on about olives. The olives are sooo fresh and delicious here. Plentiful, colorful, and cheap. I’m still bitter that I’ve only ever been around garbage olives. Canned, flavorless, offensive beings. It’s like seeing a dove for the first time, after being around rabid city pigeons your whole life. They’re basically a different species.

There is also a pancake shaped bread thing, that I can’t describe because it isn’t a pancake. But what it is, is delicious. And if you see it, you should try it. It has a corn-like, fluffy but simultaneously glutinous quality, much like yucca or tapioca flour. The outside is crispy and the inside is fluffy. Basically it’s simply perfect. Emphasis on simple. It has a very light vegetable filling.

Last but not least, the low-down on juice stalls. Fresh orange juice is plentiful and cheap in Morocco. But that isn’t the be-all and end-all. First, I had a delicious grapefruit, orange, lemon juice blend that was a tantalizing citric blend of sweet and sour notes. For those of you who don’t particularly like the sometimes cloying sweetness of fresh OJ, this may be a better alternative. I appreciate both, but the blended version is balanced enough that it doesn’t bother me that it isn’t as sweet. It is complex enough to leave me sated. You’ll find sellers along the waterfront, outside the walled souk.

Before I sign off, I just want to say, if you haven’t had sugarcane juice, it’s a must try. If you ask for the juice to go, you’ll pay more for the plastic cup. If you drink it on the spot in a glass cup, it will be much less. Also don’t accept the first price for juice, it will usually be double or triple the actual price. Some sellers will add a touch of lemon/lime. Try it both ways to see what you prefer. 5 dirhams is fair, if you’re desperate pay 10 but don’t pay 15, that’s not the tourist price, it’s the dumb tourist price. But, it’s okay to be a dumb tourist sometimes, we’ve all been there, and we’ll all be there again.

Mogador forever ✌️

This is a combined post because I try not to focus on the negative and Marrakech was, er, how shall I say this? Not a positive. I really didn’t like Marrakech at all. Which by the way, I was not expecting, as the ENTIRE reason I went to Morocco was because I just KNEW that Marrakech would be one of my soul cities. It is not. So yes, picture above is of me, walking in the medina, having one of my better days in Marrakech. I will explain why I do not like it. It’s touristy to the point that EVERYTHING is contrived. There is little way to really have an “authentic” experience (yes I know that’s a loaded statement but hopefully you get the gist). And I really did not feel safe here. As a woman traveling alone, feeling like I can’t walk around without lowering my guard for one instant is not my idea of relaxing. While there are always people trying to scam you, it just never lets up. It’s a constant barrage and it’s IMPOSSIBLE to enjoy it. I will qualify this by stating that if you are in a group it’s much better, and if you have a ton of money that buys you into a resort or expensive activities that insulate you from the harsh realities of the Medina then yes Marrakech is amazing. However, it really pisses me off that I can’t feel safe unless I’m accompanied. And I can’t get a break from harassment without a ton of money. I’m not eager to return. Imlil really helped. I was starting to hate my time here, so that’s why I go from Marrakech to Imlil in this post. Imlil is better.

Positive highlights are as follows:

I went to Le Jardin Secret, which is French for “Secret Garden”. There is an admission fee that I remember thinking wasn’t quite worth it but it is a nice little oasis in the medina.

Wandering in the market is worth it, you’ll see beautiful things. The owner of this shop wasn’t pushy AT ALL. Which was such a welcome relief that I actually had the time and desire to purchase a small lamp from him. Most merchants in the souk take credit cards.

This one really cracked me up, I did a double take at the opulence. Who wants a leather soccer ball? Would you like a little LV on that? But no, no I do not want one.

So as I said before. Moroccan food, not my favorite. But this was palatable for the price. Which in this context is a compliment from me. Kind of. Take it or leave it. It’s affordable for the price…they have some “Mexican” options. I wasn’t ready to even go there. I don’t trust it, but you can try it if you want?

Ooh but silver lining, I found a KitKat ice-cream bar!

In the evening there is the famous Jemaa el-Fnaa, the square that becomes a nighttime carnival of sorts. I was discouraged from trying any of the street food for sanitary reasons. I might have tried it somewhere else but as I’m already not enticed by their regular fare, I skipped it. Just to illustrate, my friend ran through the whole of it so she could see it without being touched or stopped. She didn’t quite escape being touched though.

At least these lanterns are beautiful. There are bands of musicians playing around the square and it’s really nice music but don’t pull out your phone because they will try to charge you for any picture/video taken. Also, there was man with a monkey who was selling monkey hugs, or should I call it monkey time?

Well, he placed his monkey on my friends shoulders without her permission, so that if she interacted with it, he could charge her. Imagine you’re walking along the square, minding your own business and someone puts a monkey on your shoulders and head? I don’t think I even reacted, another friend counseled her to stay still as we berated him and made him take the monkey off her back. This is the real “Harrakech”, lovingly nicknamed by others who have experienced the harassment.

Finally I left.

I escaped to Imlil, a small town in the Atlas Mountains. Many climbers use it as their base for climbing nearby mountains. I’m pretty sure one of them is famous but since the mountain goat gene skipped me, I don’t remember and I don’t care. I’m a Capricorn that only identifies with the aquatic side of my sign.

Literally the most peaceful place. A breath of fresh air. Hell, the air is fresh.

Do I know the name of this restaurant with the amazing tagine, and not so amazing dessert platter? No. But never fear, there is only one road into Imlil and you will see it on your left hand side if entering the village. It’s hard to miss. I’m pretty sure there wasn’t a sign but I’m not completely sure. However forget the dry dessert platter, this is irrelevant and completely trumped (no pun intended) by the INSANE AMBIANCE which you must experience if you come here.

I stayed at Hotel Les Terrasses De Toubkal By Atelier Chef Tarik, breakfast included is pictured above. Welllll worth it. It is a strange place but in a good way. I think it’s a ski lodge? But we were not there during ski season. We were there very briefly but ambiance was great, location was great, service was good and breakfast was on point. They have a restaurant we didn’t get a chance to sample but I wouldn’t hesitate if I had been there longer.

I hiked to this waterfall. And I use the term “hike” loosely. See I PLANNED to hike but I met a man with a donkey, which I rode to the top. My friend hiked alongside as she wasn’t into getting on the burro’s back. I was really thrilled at first, on the way up. I planned to hike down but he lingered and how to say no. Gripping that donkey on a steep decline is not easy on the thighs or back. I had regrets, I would have rather walked. But you live and you learn. Oh and as pictured above, a fresh orange juice stand. It was really neat how he piped the waterfall’s water to his bowl of oranges to keep them washed and freshen. Really refreshing, nothing like fresh squeezed OJ.

Alright, nothing more to say really. I’ll just drop one last picture that once again highlights Imlil’s adorableness factor.

Fez is the old capital of Morocco, and it is also home to the world’s largest medina. While my experience with medinas has always been maze-like, Fez’s medina is truly a labyrinth. It is easier to get lost than found here so I wouldn’t advise going here alone, or without a map/functioning GPS. Maps.me is an app that enables you to download a city map and use it offline if you happen to not a local SIM card/data plan. I still prefer the flexibility a SIM card affords me, and they’re ridiculously cheap in Morocco. You’ll pay under ten dollars for a SIM card and a few gigs of data.

A riad is a traditional home that is distinguished by an interior courtyard. The one I stayed in, Riad Verus, converted their courtyard into a pretty snazzy lounge area.

The iconic entrance to the medina is Bab Bou Jeloud, or The Blue Gate. I entered the market area for the first time through The Blue Gate!

Word of warning. There are a lot of people on their hustle in Morocco, especially in heavily touristed cities. It’s the way of the world, and yes, people need to make money, but don’t trust anyone you don’t know. I like to be open and trusting, but strangers will literally ask you where you are going and “offer” to help you get there. If you’re lucky they’ll actually take you where you want to go. If you aren’t they might take you somewhere isolated and rob you. And the deep medina IS a tangle of alleys, so that isn’t hard to do. If someone is actually taking you somewhere where they are tanning/dying leather, or weaving carpets etc. etc. They expect you to be paid for their service, which they probably won’t mention upfront. This isn’t always a bad thing, if you need help getting somewhere. But they may ask for more than you are willing to pay, or even worse, you may be unaware there is an expectation. They’re also likely to take you somewhere where they will receive a commission if you buy something. It can get really awkward, really fast. So make sure you know what you’re getting yourself into and ask about prices and expectations upfront, don’t let them brush you off and insist.

My friend and I went to the medina for the first time on a Friday. Fridays are probably not the best day to go because most stalls/shops are closed. At least that is what most people will say. In hindsight, I am kind of glad that my introduction to the medina occurred on a Friday because it can be sensory overload. I was able to ease my way into it. And it is easier to take in the architecture of the medina, and find quiet stretches on a Friday. It can be argued, however, that you are much more at the mercy of whoever you may find in more secluded parts…

Although it was a better day to visit the many famous attractions, such as madrasas or mosques in the medina, it was a completely different place the next day. You can see a glimpse of the hustle and bustle in the picture below.

Being that medina literally refers to an “old city”, it is no small wonder that you should run into many historic landmarks. I visited two historic madrasas [educational institutions] while in the Fez. There is a small entrance fee, and going inside is worth the small fee. There isn’t a museum exhibit or anything of the sort, you are paying to gaze at the architectural wonder that is Morocco. If this doesn’t stir your blood then…save your shingles [*not referring the disease, it’s just what I call coins, shingles have a jingle-y sound to them…and coins do and should jingle].

The above pictured Bou Inania Madrasa is the only madrasa in Fez to boast a minaret. Built in the 1350s, it has a functioned as both a madrasa and a mosque.

I also visited the Al-Attarine Madrasa, pictured below, which is essentially named after the perfume market it is in. Both of the madrasas pictured were built during the Marinid Dynasty and are prominent examples of Marinid architecture. Fez is the leather capital of Morocco, but it is also a huge handicraft center and there are, as in all major Moroccan cities, plenty of herboristes to explore, if that is what you fancy. I was “guided” to an herboriste who claims to be in the first herboriste shop ever founded in Fez…not sure how credible that is but I’m not too concerned.

I love perfume. I probably think I know a lot more about perfume than I actually do, but I like to think I know more than the average person. Perfume stalls in Middle Eastern markets usually use perfume oil, which is the most concentrated version of a perfume, a little goes a long way. The real draw is being able to mix your own blend of perfume oils and taking home a high-quality signature scent. While I didn’t see any dedicated perfume stalls, the herboriste I visited had a small selection of perfume oils and I made a small blend of rose, jasmine, amber and musk.

The shop I visited is pictured below, and the contact info is pictured above.

Always bargain please. I ended up paying half the asking price because I walked away, be very firm about your offer, the first price should never be the last price.

Upon leaving the herboriste, we were in search of shisha. We were “offered help” by the shop clerk, and were taken to a “shisha place”, that was basically someone’s backyard/terrace in the medina. It looked like a dusty arcade cemetery. Receipts [of the visual sort] are below:

The shisha must have been swiped from someone’s living room. Someone ran to retrieve us two cans of coke. It was ridiculous, and definitely not an actual shisha establishment, but it was really funny so we took it in stride.

There was an adorable puppy though…free of charge. And when we asked for tongs for the coal…we were given scissors. It did the job though. Moving on to food. I walked so much I had bloody blisters…so I was ready to eat and get out of the sun. Of course at that point we had gone so deep into the medina that the way back was uphill. Eventually we found Cafe Clock, which at that point felt like an oasis.

I feel like everyone gives Cafe Clock rave reviews and it isn’t quite worth the rave reviews. It is definitely a solid choice for a decent plate of food or to get away from the hustle and bustle of the medina, and have a more “western setting” or some wifi. But it isn’t an epicurean dream. The tagine was definitely one of the best I had, but honestly that isn’t saying much…tagine just refers to the clay pot it was cooked in. And most of the food in Morocco is seasoned the same way, and is slightly bland. Not that there aren’t spices in it, it just isn’t well balanced and is usually lacking salt. If you can’t tell, I’m not a huge fan of Moroccan food. There are good things but it isn’t something I will ever crave. And yes, I love Middle Eastern food but Moroccan food deserves its own category, in my opinion it isn’t the star of the genre. On a different day, wandering through the medina, we found the besttt food stall. I don’t know what it is called but everything from savory to sweet was absolutely delicious. The crowd of locals combined with the lack of bees hovering on the sweets was enough to draw us in for a try.

If you can read Arabic, or can find this place, go there!!! The meat samosas were to die for, as were all the pastries I bought. We went there on the way to The Ruined Garden…which by the way, was an apt name, because it was a ruined experience. I have to admit that it has great ambiance and we would have liked to try the food. But we sat there for almost an hour and still hadn’t received water or any attention. The waiter came by once after twenty minutes to apologize for the wait, citing a full house as the issue. We were patient with him…but thirty minutes later and no sign of anyone? Maybe they forgot us in the corner of the garden…or maybe because we were a party of two we didn’t matter? Either way, we were over it after nearly an hour of waiting. Water would have eased our wait…and my wrath. Moving on to something very delicious, I had a bastilla/pastilla [I’ve seen it spelled both ways] at Les Jardins de Sheherazade, which was housed in a mausoleum of a hotel. The place looked like old money and the hotel is worth walking into just for the stunning courtyard. We were seated upstairs at the restaurant and had a marvelous 360 view of the city. There is, however, a price tag to match. If you’re looking for a place to splurge though, this is definitely it. I could see having a romantic dinner there around sunset.

The bastilla is a round phyllo dough pastry that is stuffed with meat and spices, and has both savory and sweet elements. I never thought I’d enjoy a sweet glaze and cinnamon/spices but the textures and flavors were perfectly balanced and melded together. It is a rather rich dish, so I completely understand why it is traditionally only served at celebrations like weddings.

From Cafe Clock, we walked to the real oasis, a garden called Jnan sbil that was truly a pleasure to wander around in. On the way there we passed a big square that was at times empty, at times an impromptu parking lot, and at night functioned as a community gathering spot with music, food etc. My favorite orange juice stall was there. One thing I love about Morocco is how common and cheap fresh squeezed orange juice is. Drinking fresh-squeezed OJ when you are HOT and dehydrated is the best feeling.

Once you reach this square, the garden in a stone’s throw away…

That pretty much sums up Fez for me. From Fez, I did a day trip to Chefchaouen, also known as “The Blue Pearl of Morocco”. Chefchaouen is about a 4 hour bus ride from Fez. It isn’t worth staying more than 1-2 days.

Also I’m about to blow the lid off of this. Everyone is in on this big conspiracy to make it seem like Chefchaouen is COMPLETELY BLUE. While it is blue, but it is not COMPLETELY blue. All of the pictures you see online make it seem like the whole city is blue. It is not. In fact, when we were arriving and I saw it at a distance I thought we were close because I saw patches of blue on the cityscape. And that is all it is. Blue patches. It is a regular city, with blue paint in some patches. People find the patches and take pictures there. So it’s really funny because you see tourists wandering around trying to find a blue patch to take a picture at. I did it too, because aside from the small, less intimidating medina, that’s all there really is to do there. I’m honestly not mad at it because I think I would lose my mind if everything was monochromatic…

This is what they want you think it looks like…

And this is what it actually looks like…

Shukran 🙂

ENGLISH/FRENCH…………ESPAÑOL

This was definitely my favorite city in Spain. I really loved Barcelona but Sevilla is just so Spanish. I was only here for a full day and there’s so much I didn’t do, it really was just a teaser, but I was completely captivated by the city. The Andalusian culture is so rich and the Moorish influences are totally fascinating. We ended up staying at a hostel called La Banda Rooftop, which was easily the best hostel I stayed at in all of Spain. It wasn’t because it was the poshest or the cleanest but the social aspect and ambiance were on point.

They had a rooftop terrace with a bar and hosted social events regularly, as well as a nightly dinner that is a good way of meeting other people. I have to be completely honest and say that the dinner is nothing to write home about. For some reason I’ve noticed that more often than not, I have to reach for salt in Spain. Flavors are usually on point and well balanced but somebody is skimping on the salt. But I digress. Our first night there was really interesting because it was International Women’s Day and there were a lot of protesters everywhere. I posted a video of the protests on my Insta [handle: soy_vaga]. It was awesome to see the city come alive that way and how strong the sense of solidarity was. You can really feel when a place has a strong sense of identity and community and it was really quite powerful. The air was just humming with intense fervor of the protesters. Even at the hostel they were like, “the ladies took the day off to go protest”, and you could tell they were really supportive of it. A lot of businesses closed early also. Come nightfall, they hosted a “club night”, and we all met at the rooftop a bit early for some drinks and socializing. We then went to Club San Francisco, which was okay, but nothing special. Good ambiance, okay music, bit of a slow night, but we made it fun. Then we moved on to a club called Uthopia that had a decent selection, but I have to say that Barcelona is really hard to top on the nightlife front. I’m also not sure Uthopia is the best club that Seville has to offer.

Disclaimer: I use Seville and Sevilla interchangeably because I speak Spanglish. Seville is the French pronunciation that the English adopted [why Sevilla wasn’t the natural choice, I don’t know?…don’t quite follow their logic but whatever] and Sevilla [pronounced Seh-vee-ya as ‘ll’ creates a ‘y’ sound in Spanish] is the name of the city in Spanish.

As far as food goes, I did a poor job documenting things in Sevilla. I was a little burned out from traveling nonstop and I was distracted by the ambiance. Sometimes I just want to take it all in and not snap a picture. I did, however, go to a really neat bar/restaurant at the market where I had amazing seafood tapas. It’s so cool seeing how locals spend their lunch break eating at the counter of some small restaurant in el mercado. Very authentic experience.

I went to the Mercado de Feria, the oldest market in Sevilla, for lunch. We ended up at La Cantina, a bar/restaurant popular with locals and tourists alike. As you can see in the picture below, it’s bare bones. People stand in the open area terrace surrounding the small corner bar and eat their meal and drink their wine. We had excellent seafood. I had a plate of small mullet fish fried. My cousin had an excellent sea bass and our friend had octopus that was pickled in an almost ceviche-like dish. Orders are written on the white tile in erasable marker and wiped off when fulfilled and paid. It is pretty fast-paced, at least around lunch. We were shoulder-to-shoulder fighting our way to the counter to place an order. That’s how busy it was. Whenever you see a crowd of locals flocking to a place, it’s probably good. As always in Spain, every order is accompanied with a complimentary bread basket. We also had a round of Tinto Verano, which is a mix of red wine and lemonade [usually slightly sparkling], that mimics a sangria sans fruit. Cheap and delicious. Highly recommended.

We also went to the Plaza de España, where a self-identified gitana [Spanish for gypsy] tried to sell us rosemary for dispelling the evil eye. Plaza España itself is enormous and architecturally impressive. We encountered everything from a small artificial river you can row a boat down, and cut outs of flamenco dancers you can take pictures in. There was even an impromptu flamenco show from street dancers trying to earn some money.

I definitely didn’t see everything Sevilla has to offer but I will return…

Meanwhile, I’ll leave you with some street art…

Now I must sashay away…

Capital of Spain’s Costa del Sol, more than just the birthplace of Picasso

One of the best things about Spain is the Mediterranean. Málaga is a port city where the Mediterranean Sea and the autonomous Spanish region of Andalusia converge. It offers up the best elements of a sleepy beach town and the hustle and bustle of a port city steeped in a rich and complex history. Andalusia is where Moorish influences first intermingled with Spanish culture, and it is apparent in everything from the architecture to the music. It is the region that birthed flamenco music, and la Costa del Sol [The Sun Coast] is a strip of beach towns that Málaga is considered the de facto capital of. This also means that it is a party town, although more so in the summer months when vacationers flock to the city to blow off some steam. Its other claim to fame is that it is the birthplace of Pablo Picasso, and the Museum of Pablo Picasso is definitely worth a visit.

Foodie highlights were breakfast at BYOKO, which is a short walk from the Picasso Museum in case you want to eat there before visiting. The food is fresh, tasty, and healthy. Among other things, they have a selection of fresh smoothies, açaí bowls, avocado toast. If I had more time in Málaga I would have gone back for lunch/dinner. I had a green smoothie, which I’m usually wary of but the kale was subtle…which sounds like a contradiction but it’s true. My cousin had a mixed fruit smoothie sans kale that was also excellent.

I’m always wary of other people’s guacamole. It is almost always lacking what I consider to be the essential ingredient. LIME. Lemon in a pinch. If you aren’t doing this already, try it. There is nothing I hate more than someone just mashing up an avocado, adding no lime, salt or love and throwing some diced up tomato in it like they did something. I for one, don’t want tomato in my guacamole as a general rule. Why is it in there? It belongs in a salsa or chimol [what we call it in El Salvador, you probably know it as pico de gallo, which is the Mexican term for it] in a separate dish. Onion and cilantro are also your friends. Anddd, throw the seed into the guacamole if you want to help keep it from oxidating. It won’t keep all of it from browning but it slows down the process. But back to BYOKO, it is run by a French-Spanish duo that is responsible for this perfect guacamole. If you ever find yourself in Málaga, BYOKO is definitely worth checking out.

Another notable mention is La Chancla, a hotel/restaurant. I can’t speak for the hotel, but as far as the restaurant goes, the food was pretty decent. Presentation was great but portion sizes are small. Steer clear of the dessert, it is subpar and looks better than it tastes. They have a great location on the boardwalk of Malaga, and it’s a great place to sip on a cocktail while watching the sunset. They do a bit of fusion which was a nice break from traditional Spanish cuisine.

Honorable mention goes to Mafalda, it’s a good cheap eat that is worth trying because it comes in a soft white bread that is local to Málaga that almost looks like a big English muffin. A sandwich made using this bread is called a campero.

I can’t quite make heads or tails of the bread. I had a chicken campero, and frankly it was just chicken and bread, and the chicken had such a strong seasoning. It was a bit curry-like? It tasted very Moroccan…I can’t lie and say I’m a fan, as I found the taste overpowering. It needed something to balance it out. Fries there, however, are served with their famous garlic mayonnaise. It is sooo good. The garlic mayo was the highlight of my meal there because everything that wasn’t that great was elevated by a dip in it. I don’t do ketchup and mayo on my French fries so believe me when I say this mayonnaise isn’t mayonnais-ey. Nevertheless, mayo isn’t enough to make me a repeat customer. Hit it and quit it.

Okay, one last foodie related thing. The mercado, or market. Please go to this market. I may just be attached to this market because it is the first one I went to in Spain but I really enjoyed it. There is fresh produce and people come here to eat as well. To drink a glass of wine and have tapas. Spaniards lunch at their mercados, and El Mercado Central de Atarazanas has a really interesting history. Back in the day most of what was around the market was underwater, and the sea came right up to the entrance of the mercado. So fishermen could literally row up to the market with the catch of the day.

Maybe not literally. But it’s still pretty neat if you think about it. ALSO, I found gooseberries here, which I’m obsessed with. You can definitely see the Moorish influence in the archway of entrada [entrance] to the market.

I also had a first there, I ate an octopus kebab there that was to die for. It still haunts me. Perfectly grilled, with a tender but firm and oddly steak-like texture. As it was a tapa, it was a single kebab that was laid on a bed of mashed potato. We also ordered fried eggplant that was paired a sort of honey drizzle. Sangria is common and cheap, so that happened too.

…and there is always the complementary bread basket and plate of olives…

After leaving the market we went to the Antigua Casa de Guardia, which is the oldest tavern in Málaga. It has been in operation since 1840. It is no frills, and it is standing-only. You order at the bar and they pour straight from a tap on a barrel.

Prices are very reasonable, most glasses cost 1.5-2 euros. They’re small glasses, about the size of a double shot. When you are served, the bartender writes the amount due in chalk on the wooden countertop [you can see a bit of the chalk bill on the top left of the counter in the picture below], when you pay it gets wiped off with the swipe of a hand.

I wasn’t a huge fan of the traditional sweet wines of Málaga, but many would contradict me. It is too syrupy-sweet to me, and I prefer sweet wines. It has a subtly medicinal quality usually evoked by Jägermeister or some other herbal liqueur.

A lot of people love pajarete, and it’s worth trying for yourself. I spoke to the bartender and told him I liked moscato and he went to some refrigerator and poured a mystery wine I never quite caught the name of that I really enjoyed. At 1.5-2 euros a glass, it is worth taste testing here.

The boardwalk is the place to be in Málaga. It’s really long, and there are both scooters and bikes to rent. I rented an electric scooter using an app called WIND, if you don’t have a Spanish credit card, it links to PayPal.

You’ll see plenty of these converted boat grills [pictured below] that fire up to grill sardine kebabs, which are typical fare here. Unfortunately I did not get to try any, I came too early and too late. Hopefully I can come back and try one someday…

¡Adios!

‘Málaga, a martini of the sea.’

–Rafael Pérez Estrada

The Cosmopolitan Heart of Catalunya

I didn’t expect to be so completely and irrevocably taken with Spain. Barcelona was my introduction to this country and mannnn it packs a mean punch. It has everything. Unique culture? Check. [Come through Catalunya] World-class food, with options for every palate? Check. Amazing architecture? Check. Beaches? Check. Clubbing? Triple check.

Barcelona and Gaudi are practically synonymous. For those of you who don’t know, he is most famous for his style of architecture called Catalan Modernist. His most famous work is The Basílica i Temple Expiatori de la Sagrada Família, more commonly known as La Sagrada Familia. Basically his style looks like something straight out of a Gothic fairytale, his fantastical designs exist alongside older architecture dominated by intricate facades and sleek skyscrapers, yet somehow all of this results in a harmonious amalgamation.

Spain doesn’t have the strongest economy, but Barcelona is one of the financial centers of Spain, which is one of the biggest reasons why Spain is opposed to their secession. What I’m trying to say is: Spain is pretty cheap. Even Barcelona, which is considered expensive [think New York City prices compared to Atlanta, Georgia prices], is not bad by most European [Schengen] or North American standards. Barcelona is in the autonomous community of Catalonia/Catalunya [Spanish/Catalan], a culturally distinct group within Spain. Catalan sounds something like a cross between Spanish and French, and Catalonians are fiercely proud of their culture and language and one really has to respect how hard they fight to keep it alive. Although all of them speak Spanish, they go out of their way to speak their language. Signage is in Catalan, and learning a phrase or two in Catalan as opposed to defaulting to Spanish will earn you some brownie points.

Barcelona is known as a party destination. The nightlife is incredible, it’s vibrant and you can do everything from late night tapas, dinners, bars of every kind [from posh to dive] and an array of clubs, the best of which are right on the beach. One of the highlights for me was visiting Paradiso, which is currently ranked #37 on the list of the World’s Best Bars. And among the bars that grace that list, it is definitely one of the most affordably priced. Cocktails are on average 10 euros. And each cocktail is an EXPERIENCE. This is mixology at it’s finest, every cocktail is carefully crafted and presented. It is a complete sensory experience. The flavors are a composition of exquisitely intriguing notes and the presentation is absolutely theatrical, sometimes stunning, sometimes playful.

One of the most intriguing drinks was served in a seashell in the closed box you see pictured above next to the cocktail in the vase. I have a video of my friend drinking it on my Instagram [handle: soy_vaga]. I’m usually not a fan of savory cocktails, but this one was so well balanced that I rather enjoyed it. It definitely does evoke a sense of the sea.

Also, Paradiso is channeling the speakeasy vibes super hard. It’s in the back of a converted Pastrami shop, one has to open a huge refrigerator door in order to enter, and the bouncer is like an older version of Wolverine, his beard game is stronggg. Just go.

Eat lots of tapas. Always and everywhere in Spain. One of the “higher quality but won’t break the bank” tapas restaurants that stood out was Elsa y Fred [apparently named after an Argentine film I’ve never seen but now want to see]. I tried squid doughnut in ink with sea urchin, video of which is also on my Instagram [handle: soy_vaga]. Suffice it to say, I didn’t much enjoy it…but to be fair, I blame the sea urchin and I think I’m not partial to squid ink [the iron note in it just isn’t my cup of tea, but I’d try it again in a different dish]. Everything else at Elsa y Fred’s was scrumptious. See pics below, was too busy eating to take pictures of every tapa I ordered, sorry. Also the house wine is excellent, particularly enjoyed the “Elsa”. Oh, and wine is as plentiful and cheap as water in Spain, sooo there’s that.

Also have to give a shout-out to Lluis de les Moles, which is exclusively open for lunch. They have a prix fixe lunch menu that’s 22 euros, and includes three courses, an appetizer, entre, and dessert. Again I forgot to take a pic of the main but my dessert [pictured below] is a crema Catalana/crème catalane [Spanish/Catalan], which is a creamier version of a creme brûlée.

Appetizer and dessert pictured below

Okay, finally turning to nightlife. I’m not going to post a million pictures of me at the club but suffice it to say that the really big mega clubs are basically all right next to each other on the beach Barceloneta. They include Pacha, Opium, and Shôko. I went to Pacha and really enjoyed the music, it was a great blend of Top 40, hip hop and reggaeton. I went on a Sunday which is considered to a good night to go to Pacha, they switch it up a little then. I’m not super into house, I think of it as boom boom music, so of course there is always house being offered in most European clubs and Barcelona is no exception but Latin music is big in Spain of course, and reggaeton seems to be especially common here which I’m definitely here for. Check out this weekly calendar for what clubs are playing what music and to sign up for guest lists in Barcelona —> https://www.youbarcelona.com/en/parties-barcelona/parties-on_monday

The back terrace of PACHA, ran into a bachelor party from England dressed as P.I.M.P.s

…then they insisted on dressing us in their “gear”…

Clubs in Barcelona close around dawn…so sometimes you want late night food and of course, McDonalds is basically the only option. I won’t even get into that. But there is one more late night option that closes at 3 am if you decided to dip out before 5 am. A bakery called The Catalan Sandwich. It sells Catalan sandwiches, I guess there is something special about the bread and the meat? It’s a regular solid baguette sandwich. I recommend it but it’s nothing to write home about either.

I could go on and on but I’ll quit while I’m ahead. Funny thing, I packed two paperbacks for this trip, and one happened to be by a famous novelist, Carlos Ruis Zafón, who happens to be from Barcelona. The book is called The Shadow of the Wind, and I could not put it down. So I’m going to end this with a quote about Barcelona by Zafón:

The haunting of history is ever present in Barcelona. I see cities as organisms, as living creatures. To me, Madrid is a man and Barcelona is a woman. And it’s a woman who’s extremely vain.

Adéu!

and a picture of me at the Arc de Triomf…

Hello world!

I’ll begin by saying that I’m doing an exchange in Berlin for one semester at Freie Universitat. I got to Berlin early and spent a couple of days there before heading to Spain [which I will be discussing in my next post]. This is a very brief intro to Berlin but I will definitely be posting more about this amazing city in the future.

As a lover of art and history I knew I couldn’t miss Berlin’s East Side Gallery, which is essentially the remains of the Berlin Wall, which is now covered in unique, socially provocative murals.

Also tons of cool street art/souvenirs being sold all along the wall. The murals are on both sides of the wall.

Meanwhile, there was a protest going on, people marching along the intersecting road with a police escort.

I can’t neglect to mention that it was COLD. Yes, yes, I’m from the D.M.V. but my body has never dealt well with the cold. And 40 degrees Fahrenheit, approx 4 degrees Celsius, is not weather I ever want to walk around in. Apparently that was unseasonably warm for February. To which I say, I definitely don’t want to be there for classic seasonal February climes! So we ended up walking into a bar for a drink, so that we would at least feel warm. Ended up falling into a group of Irish friends [22 to be exact] who were in Berlin for the weekend. They were the rowdiest, happiest bunch, and we also happened to end up getting free drinks. Basically, you never know who you’re going to find, but so far it seems that it’s almost certain to be interesting. And now on to the food, because I can’t leave out the food!

So I did not know what schnitzel actually was, although I had definitely heard about it and read about it I never took the time to actually figure out what it was. It was definitely not something that I saw on local menus where I grew up. But for those of you who are also living a schnitzel-less life, I’m going to bring you onto this schnitzel life. It is, more or less, a thin piece of meat [sliced so, or pounded by a meat hammer], that is breaded and fried. I literally could not finish my wiener schnitzel [the wiener refers to veal/baby cow]. It was simple and delicious. Served with potatoes in this case. Some hearty, classic meat and potatoes. Nuff said.

Moving on to the doner kebab question…which is the best one?

or

To which I say…it depends.

I can’t eat tons of meat so Rüyam has my vote so far, as I feel that it has a bit more vegetation and I prefer the ratio of veggies to meat. However both of them are definitely the size of my face, almost the size of my head…and I cannot finish one. You could feed a family of 2.5 people. A couple and a small child. Or a throuple with a petite member. There are tons of reviews both vid and text that go into vigorous debates regarding the best doner, I won’t even attempt to touch that. These are two of the widely acknowledged heavyweights and thought I’ll prob get hate for saying this…I still prefer the doner I had at a few unidentified street stalls in Istanbul. The seasoning was just out of this world. But that’s just me. Anyways, try it. It’s open late into the night. And it is CHEAP. Under 4 euros cheap. I can’t hate on that.

Other random tidbits before I end this post. People watching is amazing here. And this is the land of Aldi. I knew Aldi was German but I didn’t realize how big they were here, in actual size and quantity. The biggest differences, aside from literal size, is that they have actual baked goods in their marts here, and a healthy liquor selection which is quite different from the states.

Alright…I think that’s about it for now.

Tchüss!

anddddd, one last photo dump…